Trekking to Gomukh ,Topaban and.......

When I feel tired of life, distant calls me; the hills, the mountains, the seas call me, and I get ready with my rucksack to respond their call.

I took a sudden decision and bought the railway ticket for Haridwar, via Delhi from Guwahati along with two other friends. I had a visit to kedarnath and Badrinath few years back. So I decided to visit Yamunotri, Gangotri, Gomukh ,Topaban ,Valley of flowers and Hemkund this time.

We reached Haridwar on 20^th July/2009 and the same day we started for Yamunotri by a hired taxi. By evening we reached Barkut and choose a hotel near the downstream of the river Yamunotri. Next day early in the morning we started for Janaki chati from where after a 5km of trekking ,we reached Yamunotri. The river Yamuna is the younger sister of Lord Yama, and certainly has some similarity with her brother’s character. Yamunotri seems to have an awe-some atmosphere what seems to have in Yampuri and frankly speaking I did not like yamunotri very much. I took bath in the hot water of Suryakund.

By noon we started for gangotri from janaki chati. In the Garhwal range of Himalayas driving of car is not allowed after 7pm. In the evening we checked in a hotel at Dunda. After getting fresh we roamed the nearby areas. Dunda is a nice place and free from hustle and bustle of town life.

Next morning we started early and reached Uttarkashi at around 8 am and at 10am we collected our permission letter from the office of the D.F.O.Uttarkashi, which is mandatory for visiting Gomukh and Topaban. As our hired car did not start we had to proceed for Gangotri in a share-jeep. It took about six hours to reach Gangotri. I enjoyed the journey very much as the scene and scenery on the both sides of the road was really beautiful and even stopped me from blinking my eyes. I saw an Iguana crossing the road. During our drive to Gangotri we also noticed Himalayan languor in many places.

After checking in a hotel at Gongotri , we went out, and first we fixed two guide cum porter for out trekking to Bhojbasa , Gomukh and Topaban, next morning. Then we roamed here and there till late evening. The Ganges (Bhagirathi) were flowing with incessant murmuring sound with occasional sounds of bell coming from theTemple Clouds were playing with the mountains merrily.

Next morning we started for Bhojbasa(13 km from Gongotri). I was enjoying my trekking very much. As we were advancing the glimpses of mountains around were making me excited. Bhagirathi was so jubilant with her foamy and emotional flowing downwards and Mountains were changing their hue so frequently. In some places mountains were with the luster of white crowns again in some places they were like idol of stones with their peak piercing the sky.

After 9km of trekking we reached Chirbasa. The place got it’s name from the word chir , a kind of very big tree, which were found abundantly in that place. We took rest for sometimes at the arena of forest office there and had black tea, managed by our guides.

Then we proceeded for Bhojbasa. On the way there were many bhoj trees(the leaf and bark of these trees were used for writing in early days). It was a 5km trek from Chirbasa to Bhojbasa and the way there was very narrow and many boulders both big and small were hanging on the slope of the mountains. In three occasions we had to cross the flowing Bhagirathi walking over thin logs placed bridging both sides of the river.At around 3 pm we reached Bhojbasa and decided to stay there in the tent of Rambaba to spend the night. We met few Dutch and Australian tourists there, who had returned from Topaban. They told us their experience of trekking to Topaban. On our way to Bhojbasa we found plenty of Ganga-tulsi(a kind of basil).The smell of their leaves were nice and gave us relief from tiredness. Bhojbasa is a beautiful valley with river Bhagirathi flowing across it and worth of spending a day or two there. We spent the night in a tent.

Next morning we proceeded towards Gomukh(3892m) on our way to Topaban, keeping our luggage in the tent and taking some dry fruit and water with us. It was a 5 km’s of trek with acclivity and declivity. We had to go over rocks and boulders and cross streams. On the way glimpses of Mt.Shivling and Mt Bhagirathi made me spell bound with their beauty. We took little rest at Gomukh(from where the bhagirathi originates, it’s like an open mouth of a cow) and then proceeded towards Topaban(6 km from Gomukh).

Trekking in this route was bit dangerous, because we had to cross a part of the Gongotri glacier (about 2and1/2 km) and there were many crevices in that part of the waning glacier. We had to breathe hard to trek upwards stepping over loose boulders. The Mountains were, as observing me with pleasantry, as I was tumbling down frequently.

After crossing the glacier, we could see the valley of Topaban. The view of Topaban revitalize us with joy and excitement and we covered the remaining distance at ease.

The river Aakashi Ganga was flowing across it. The gentle flowing of this beautiful slim river, with crystal clear water was so pleasing and refreshing. We went to the river and gave water on our head and neck. Then we proceeded further and reached the hermitage of ‘Bangali-Maa’, the lone resident of the valley. She has been giving service not only to the tourists and mountaineers, but we also witnessed a herd of deer to come there and eating salt given by the mother. She greeted us with black tea.

Topaban made me to contemplate in its essence. I wished I could live there. Vast meadows are there around the base of Shivling peak with Aakashi Ganga flowing across it. The picturesque looks of the mountains around are beyond my expression.

After spending two hours at Topaban , we returned to Gomukh on our way back to Gongotri. Gongotri glacier has been waning very fast. I noticed the big chunks of ice coming out of the Gomukh with the flow of Bhagirathi. A deep sigh came out from within my inside.

By evening we returned back to our hotel at Gongotri.and started our preparation for proceeding Govindghat for trekking to Hemkund and valley of flower.

To be continued…..

Pranab Jyoti

paharii@rediffmail.com